Located in Antique Row in East Sacramento off Elvas Avenue, Evan’s Kitchen is in a rather odd spot. Tucked amongst antique stores, it isn’t exactly where you might expect to find a restaurant. But here we are. Recommended to me by a guy I knew in high school (in the Midwest!) who also happened to end up in the Sacramento area, I had no idea Evan’s was even there. All I can say is, “Wow.” This place is the offspring of a Midwestern comfort food restaurant and a California cuisine bistro. Or something akin to that. With an interior that was reminiscent of a place along the St. Croix River I used to go to as a child, and menu items like smoked salmon risotto, I was rather puzzled, and intrigued at the seemingly odd juxtaposition in my psyche of Midwestern youth and Californian adulthood.
On this visit on a Saturday at 7:00, which we all know is typically prime time dining hour, there was no problem getting a table without a reservation. The wonderfully homey dining room was populated with mostly “blue hairs,” both in groups and with their families. I must admit, it felt like I was at a post-church brunch in rural Minnesota. However, the disdain of the older folks in the booth behind us for “the religious right wingers” reminded me that I was, indeed, ensconced in California democratic central.
Furnished in matching heavy oak tables and the kinds of chairs that you might still find in a Midwestern home – indeed, I think we had these chairs growing up – Evan’s is a place that is designed to feel like you’re at someone home, eating up some of the best, heartiest homegrown fare you could possibly want. The walls are decorated with art from local artists, all for sale, and it really does feel super homey and comfortable. Almost like you missed something in your childhood you never realized you missed.
They immediately ply you with their homestyle yumminess with fresh from the oven buns. They’re warm, gooey on the inside, crunchy on the outside globs of enriched white starchiness. I tried my best not to over indulge, as I knew what was coming for me. First up… helloooo, house smoked salmon appetizer. On a ridiculously yummy potato pancake rested the absolutely amazing, freaking awesome, both texturally and flavor-wise, smoked salmon. Atop that, was an avocado salsa that was out of this world. As I’ve aged, I’ve developed a slight allergy to avocados that really has kind of pissed me off. However, like with heavy dairy items, I will carefully indulge with small bites. This salsa is not to be missed. Ripe avocado and cilantro are a perfect pairing already, and stick a bunch of it on top of the aforementioned, along with strips of fried onion, and you’ve got a sublime mountain comprised of nothing but sheer delight. Mount Doom, you got nothing on this concoction.
Along with the entrees came side salads. The champagne vinaigrette was quite delightful, and it wasn’t too heavy on stuff like cheese that I’m not that interested in. For a side salad, and at only $1.00 extra, it was quite perfect and a good size.
For the entrees on the table: (More) Smoked Salmon and cremini mushroom risotto. Forget the rice, can I just have the salmon and mushrooms? Well, okay, so that’s not exactly risotto. For me, the rice was a tad under seasoned; I will assume that’s because the salmon has a lot of sodium to make up for it. However, this salt fiend would have preferred just a touch more. Other than that, I have very little criticism for this dish. Mix almost anything with salmon or mushrooms and I’m a pretty happy camper.
Also to make an appearance was butternut squash tortellacci in a “light curry and ginger sauce.” And when they say “light,” I think they mean so creamy your arteries slightly harden the second the plate lands on the table. But who cares. I popped a Lactaid and enjoyed what I could, which wasn’t much, because I was already pretty full from the appetizer and the salad, and could eat less than half. While it had a wonderful flavor, the menu description made it seem like it would be a little less creamy and more curry… which it means. This isn’t Indian curry, this is curry curry, as in yellow curry. Curry. Curry. Curry. The word’s lost all meaning. What hasn’t lost meaning is the crunchy bread that accompanied both dishes. I mean, seriously, this is probably not the best place for a “diet.” (I put the word in quotes, because I don’t believe in “dieting” as a concept, but that’s neither here nor there, at the moment.)
I am extremely excited to go back to Evan’s for some brunch action. The menu sounds amazing, with more smoked salmon in a benedict, in an omelet, and who knows where else. This smoked salmon could show up in a tire and I’d probably eat it. Maybe I can ask for a “vegan” omelet with tofu, soyrizo… and smoked salmon. Speaking of which, they have both a vegan and vegetarian menu. If you are looking for vegan food, the server may say that they have limited options, but let her know what you’re thinking and she’ll ask the chef what is possible. I get the feeling that you could probably just make up something loosely based on a menu item and they’d try to accommodate you.
Overall, I really liked this place. The portions were incredibly generous and will most likely provide you with two meals at an very reasonable price. In addition to the aforementioned items, a bottle of wine was also included and I don’t believe the check was more than $75 before tip. Again, i can’t wait to go back for brunch, and will most definitely be going back for dinner! With other such delightful sounding items like lobster ravioli, vegetarian burgers, and seafood pasta (cioppino style), I anxiously await my next visit! They also do catering and I believe they have a private room for rent, as well, but don’t quote me on that.
Service: 4/5 (they’re very friendly, prompt, and welcoming)
Ambience: Well, it depends on what you’re looking for. Not romantic, not swanky, but comfy, nonetheless.
Evan’s Kitchen: http://www.chefevan.com/default.aspx
855 57th Street, Ste. C (between H and J)
(East) Sacramento, CA 95819
Open 8:00-9:00 (breakfast, lunch, and dinner). Closed Mondays.